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江苏苏绣
苏绣是中国四大名绣之一,它是以苏州为中心的刺绣产品的总称。苏州位于中国江苏省南部,这里气候适宜,是中国桑蚕业的发达地区。桑蚕业的发展带动了刺绣业随之繁盛。
苏州刺绣至今已有2000余年的历史,早在三国时期(公元220~280年)就有了关于苏绣制作的记载。此后经过历代的不断发展完善,到明代(公元1368~1644年)时,苏绣已成为苏州地区一项普遍的群众性副业产品,形成了“家家养蚕,户户刺绣”的局面。清代(公元1644~1911年)的苏绣以“精细雅洁”而闻名,当时的苏州更有了“绣市”的誉称。清代中后期,苏绣在绣制技术上有了进一步发展,新出现了精美的“双面绣”,仅苏州一地专门经营刺绣的商家就有65家之多。民国时期,由于常年战乱,苏绣业曾一度衰落。新中国成立后,苏绣得到进一步的恢复和发展。1950年后,专门成立了苏绣研究所,并开办刺绣训练班,苏绣的针法由原来的18种发展到今天的40余种。
苏绣具有图案秀丽、构思巧妙、绣工细致、针法活泼、色彩清雅的独特风格,地方特色浓郁。绣技具有“平、齐、细、密、和、光、顺、匀”的特点。“平”指绣面平展;“齐”指图案边缘齐整;“细”指用针细巧,绣线精细;“密”指线条排列紧凑,不露针迹;“和”指设色适宜;“光”指光彩夺目,色泽鲜明;“顺”指丝理圆转自如;“匀”指线条精细均匀,疏密一致。在种类上,苏绣作品主要可分为零剪、戏衣、挂屏三大类,装饰性与实用性兼备。其中以“双面绣”作品最为精美。
Jiangsu Su Embroidery
Su embroidery is one of the four famous Chinese embroideries, and is mainly produced in Suzhou City of Jiangsu Province in east China. Su is the shortened form of Suzhou, a city of with moderate climate, which has a prosperous industry of sericiculture and hence highly-developed technics of embroidery.
Su embroidery has a history of about 2,000 years, originating in the Three Kingdoms Period (220-280). According to historical records, Su embroidery became so popular during the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644) that people even named lanes with names associated with silk and its embroidery. Nearly every family raised silkworms and embroidered. Su embroidery reached its peak during the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911), and Suzhou was named the Embroidery City at that time. In 1957, the Embroidery Research Institute was established in Suzhou.
Su embroidery is known for its delicacy and elegance. It has a wide range of themes. Its techniques include both single faced embroidery and unique double-faced embroidery that looks the same from either side. Double-sided embroidery has the same pattern on both sides and uses the same embroidering method that does not show the joins in the stitches. Basic features of Su embroidery are simple composition, clear theme, vivid image, and gentle color. In recent times, Su embroidery design has absorbed some western painting techniques.
The design is usually very simple, high lighting a main theme. Its stitching is smooth, dense, thin, neat, even, delicate and harmonious, etc. The thin thread is divided into up to 48 strands that are barely visible to the naked eye. In terms of categories, Su embroidery has stage costumes, embroidery fabrics and hanging screens, etc. Su embroidery products were sent to participate in the Panama World Fair in 1915. Since then, the style has become increasingly famous throughout the world.